Finally an answer to my Cartech FMU question...

[Mr Rogers]

I spoke with Corky this afternoon and he fully explained to me why it would have worked fine b4 and not now with out the restrictor. Seeing as if one could answer the question I thought I'd just post it up for everyone. He basically told me that when using the signal restrictor it will allow you to not have to bleed so much pressure on the bleeder side of the FMU. (meaning we wouldn't have to open the bleeder up that much because the actual signal pressure was lower) Now this will work fine with relatively lower boost pressures because the signal pressure is low, and you are able to compensate on the bleeder side enough to control it. Now with the higher boost pressures (11-12 is what I see regularly) if the restictor is not is, the bleeder side cannot compensate enough to keep the pressures in check because of the increased signal pressures. So, in all reality the fmu is and was always working, but the pressures even with the bleeder screw all the way open were way too high. Corky is sending me a new valve (something for the inside) and a restrictor. SO, in concluding, let it be known that you can use the Cartech with out problems even if the restrictor is not used, BUT, if you are boosting much more the 8psi it will be very hard to keep the fuel pressures low enough and the same goes for too little boost pressures. If the signal strength isn't high enough, you will never be able to raise the pressure high enough f you use the restrictor. Cya


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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[TrustGs-R]

The bleeder is cool...but for some reason some days it'll work where like when i first set it. Other days, i don't change ANYTHING and it seems like it throws my settings out the door! Weather invariance maybe? :P

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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s

[Mr Rogers]

Let's make sure not to get the "Restrictor" confused with the check valve on the "Bleeder" side. the restrictor is on the left side and goes in line with the vac. signal line and the bleeder is the one with the screw in knob. I have noticed that more then once people confused one for the other.

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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[TrustGs-R]

nod..

i kno the difference between the two. I'm just saying that my bleeder valve settings seem to work most days...and on random days ignore my tuned settings. Does this happen to you too, sir?

ps - my restrictor is in....has been since i dropped in my rc 310s

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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s